John and I were looking for an ice and mixed climbing crag day and decided on WD40, Slurpee and some potential easy trad mixed routes in upper Evan Thomas Creek. Colin was able to join us last minute and we still set our sights on upper ETC.
Colin had never been up past Moonlight before and was keen to lead up Green Monster, so we did that. Colin is a solid off the couch WI5 leader and even though he is recovering from a broken hand and hadn’t been on ice for a month, he easily led up the WI 4+/5 curtain of Green Monster. John and I were happy to do top roped laps on this big curtain and the three of us did laps on various lines on the steep wall for a few hours.
|John TR'ing on Green Monster|
To finish up the day, Colin led up “Yoga Monster” a 25 metre M5, WI4 bolted route. This route was set in 2008 as part of the larger mixed crag of Rehab Wall, just after Jason and I did the first ascents of the three new ice routes in this section of the canyon in January of 2008 (WD40, Slurpee and Green Monster).
Stiff M5 route, short, and well protected by bolts, but super technically and strenuous, I think a + is warranted. Colin led the route, John and I top roped, solid route, but once you know the move and tool placements, comes together really nicely. Recommended little M5+. Ice on the upper section of the route was fairly brittle, but took good screws. An enjoyable day out at the crag with the young guns.
|Colin heading up Yoga Monster|